Tuesday, March 3, 2009

Hints On Serger Threading

By David Trumble

Threading a serger can be a hastle. It is so much more complicated than a regular sewing machine. Instead of having one spool of thread, you might have as many as eight different threads working all at once.

Since the introduction of the home serger, users have complained about just how hard it is to thread. With multiple threads, needles, and strange looking gismos, it not only looks complicated, it is. It not only feels like you have to twist and turn just to thread it, it does.

Above the thread cones behind the machine, is a tall wire thread rack. The threads are drawn up and over the rack. They then are threaded through guides, tension assemblies, some more guides, and finally to their deliver device. It is so easy to get the threads tangled, that you really need to be on guard.

The mechanism moves the needle down through the fabric and needle plate. The thread from the needles is drawn through the fabric. The lower looper picks up the needle threads and moves to the right. The upper looper picks up the needle thread and the lower looper thread and wraps it around the stitch finger. This process is repeated again and again forming overlocking stitches around the edge of the fabric which trail along behind as the seam moves through the sewing machine.

However, when a serging machine is not properly threaded, the stitches are messed up or possibly ruined completely. There are many ways to improperly thread a serging machine, but only one right way to produce quality stitches.

The major sewing machine distributors offer a line of sergers. You can find Brother Homelocks, Viking Huskylocks, and dozens of others. Most of these use similar threading processes, although hundreds of different models can have slight variations.

So, how do you thread a serger? Begin by lifting the presser foot. This releases the pressure on the tension assemblies and make it much easier to thread them. Find the thread that will be used by the upper looper. Pull it up through and over the thread rack. Bring it down and through the thread guides on the machine. Some machines have the thread woven through a couple of guides.

The same technique used to thread a conventional sewing machine is used to thread the tension assemblies on a serger. The biggest difference is that there are several to thread. Traditional sergers used individually surface mounted tensions, but some sergers today encase the actual tension assembly in the front serger cover. In the latter case, you will see a groove for the thread and a dial for adjustment. It is vital that the thread slide between the tension discs on the tension assembly.

Serger tension is a common source of problems. Not only is it essential to properly seat the thread between the two round tension discs, the tension must balance with multiple threads.

Lifting the presser foot before you start thread, releases the pressure on the tension assemblies making it easy to thread them. Make sure each thread is drawn through the tension discs and held firmly in position. If the presser foot is down, the thread (can|may|will travel along the topof the tension discs instead of moving through them properly. The solution is: raise the presser foot lever when you start threading, and keep it up until you thread the needle.

After drawing the thread through the tension discs, continue threading through additional thread guides. Carefully follow the user manuals instructions for proper order. Unless a serger is threaded in proper order, the serger will not work properly. In most cases, thread the upper looper first, then the lower looper, and finally the needles. It is essential to be done precisely each time. No variations.

When you reach the needles, pull the thread through the serging machine take up lever, and back down through any more tension guides to the eye of the needle.

When you complete the threading process, examine the thread lines for any irregularities. Examine the tensions by tugging a bit on each thread first with the presser foot up and then with it down. There should be very little resistance when it is up, and significant friction when it is down.

Since threading sergers is such as hastle, here is one tip than can save loads of time and frustration. While it is necessary to rethread the entire machine when a thread breaks, you can change out cones of thread by tying off the old thread and new thread. Use as small a knot as possible, and then gently move the threads through the serger. You can pull individual threads or the whole set of threads may be advanced by turning the hand wheel or running the motor.

Errors in threading result in messed up stitches. Missed guides, improperly seated tensions, snags, and twists can do havoc to stitches. If your serger is not making proper stitches, rethread.

There is an exception to this threading system in the advanced jet air threading system of the Baby Lock sewing machine. Baby Lock originated the home serger in 1964 and has led the market with advances and features unparalleled by any other brand. The Baby Lock Imagine and Evolve sergers use an advanced devices that thread the serger by a simple press of a lever. They use an advance thread management system that makes traditional tensions obsolete. They may also be threaded in any order. If a thread breaks, it is unnecessary to rethread the machine.

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